Today the object of my affection are the mostly beautiful watches in the Roger Dubuis Easy Diver line. The name is probably taken from "Easy Rider," and evokes a spirit of confident yet calm entrance into the elements. The watch doesn't "prepare" for diving, it simply does without notice while minding itself and focusing on other matters such as remaining shiny and full of class.
Movement - Automatic, ETA 2824-2, Dubois Dépraz 9000 module
Functions - Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon phases
Case - Stainless steel or 18k Gold, 40 mm, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m
Dial - Chocolate, applied silvered hour-markers
Bracelet/Strap - Chocolate leather with stainless steel folding clasp
Other versions - Small seconds with hand-wound mechanical movement, Peseux 7001 calibre, GMT Large Date with automatic mechanical movement, ETA 2892, TT651 module
Say, why don't they have a jumbo sized square tourbillon watch with cage bars on the crystal? Oh, well Zenith does, and this odd homage to goth time-telling befuddles my sense of association. On the one hand, you have the underpinnings of a high-quality Zenith Port Royal watch. This handsome tank watch is a modern interpretation of the classic rectangular watch look. On the other hand... you have a black titanium cage.
Well the point of protecting the crystal of watch apparently has been lost, until now, when Zenith reintroduced the cage look. So the perception of watch protection is back, and in a big (and ugly) way. Look at those ridiculous bars on the surface, surely nothing can harm the precious sapphire crystal now. It only takes about 5 times as long to figure out what time it is, and you get to look ridiculous angling your watch around read it with any precision.
Case - 18K white gold, 48.5 mm, rubber-sheathed 18K white gold protection ring, screwed laterally, enhanced with eight elements on the bezel, sapphire crystal 3.30 mm thick, screw-down transparent back, anti-reflective treatment on both sides
More importantly, the A660H (aka A660) movement represents one of the most accurate movement types in the world. To within 5 seconds a year! That means if you sync this watch with an atomic clock, at the end of of a year, it will only be a maximum of 5 seconds off. That is pretty amazing. A typical quartz movement is accurate to within about 10-15 seconds a month, and a mechanical movement.. well it really just depends, but can be to withing 5-15 seconds a day. Having said that, you should really be able to appreciate the accuracy of the A660H. Other than the Citizen Chronomaster, Breitling uses similar movements in their "Super Quartz" watches.
Other than the somewhat confusing name "Jubilee," this watch is nicely done. The large open face is done in a cream color with an IWC-like font for the Arabic numerals. The thin bezel adds to the elegance and appearance of size, while the star of the dial is really the crisp dagger hands. The case itself is 42mm wide with 5 bars water resistance.
For the record, if you want a decent customizable watch, you can get one with far more options than the Quai de l'Ile at 121Time.com for a few hundred bucks. More high-end customizable, but cheaper than Vacheron Constantin watch can able be found at Blancier.
In a way, actually many ways, German Sinn watches are like military vehicles. They are built to last not only because the customer demands it, but because Sinn puts a large investment into their products and does not want to replace them anytime soon. Take the AMC Huvmee, which was designed in the mid 1980s and is still the most widely used vehicle in the US Army. No consumer car would last that long and still be built. Sure lots of things have changed about the Humvee (Hummer H1), but it retains the same shape and feel. The applies to Sinn watches to a large degree. The Sinn 203 series of watches was designed over 15 years ago, and still have a wonderful lasting quality to it. Perhaps it is because it is a much a machine as it is a watch, a Sinn watch is meant to last both stylistically, and functionally for a long time.
The new C1 Tourbillon Gravity from Concord doesn't just defy gravity, it defies imagination! Do not expect to see this watch in a store near you...ever!
See Ulysse Nardin watches on eBay here.
Blogging basically started as a way share your digital diary with..., well anyone. The concept seemed a bit "trendy" at first. One of those, "using the power of the internet" to allow the lay person to distribute their ideas. The fear was that legions of untalented, bad writers would flood the net with uninteresting, or at least unedited written spew.
Formex makes "racing inspired swiss watches" that each have the "4Speed" name attached to it. To be honest, it is unclear to me why the 4Speed name is part of each watch, especially since there are no modern 4Speed racing cars. Formex watches have a decidedly modern appeal in their racing instrument inspired design themes. The idea is that not all of their watches are meant for race car driving, quite the opposite as they make all manner of activity watches from driving, diving, and flying tools.
The Double Retrograde is powered by a Dubois Depraz automatic mechanical movement (one of the fancier names in watch making). Pierre DeRoche boasts that they use materials and finished often saved for movements on the dials of their watches. This give them more of an industrial look, but nothing can remove the designer quality of this timepiece.
Being "into watches" is really about being able to appreciate and recognize achievements in utility and design. As I will try to illustrate over time, making a nice watch is very hard to do. Many of the watches I criticized for a long time, I have recently come to appreciate for their classic looks and on going charm. Further, some things which appear nice at first often end up losing their novelty and on going appeal.
The subdials and date display on the face form a shape that looks like a clover on its side. While likely unintentional, I cannot get this image out of my head. I just keep seeing that outline of a clover, and I don't feel lucky for this. The other hour and minute registers for the chronograph are pretty standard. The font used for the number is technical looking to say the least, but nothing special. The registers are clean and uncluttered. Using the C1 for timing is probably quite comfortable, but you don't need to spend this kind of money for a good timing instrument. A solid Valjoux 7750 movement based watch can be had for 00 - 00. The date window on the C1 really disappoints me. There is this trend to open up the date window to indicate the previous and next days. The only purpose this serves is that the curvature of the large date window functions to help balance out the circle shapes of the three subdials. Symmetry is disturbed when you have three circles and then a square date window. So while this is an interesting solution to the visual balance problem, the execution here is entirely flawed. The placement of the date window is so far to the right, that it is off balance from the relatively central location of the round seconds dial that it attempts to balance. The result is two round shapes along the radius of the watch that are not centered or balanced with the rest of the watch. This distracts the eyes, and prevents the watch face from looking pleasing to the eye.
See Xemex watches on eBay here.
Steampunk is a relatively new term which essentially refers to turn of the century (19th-2oth century) futuristic. The embodiment of this style are the works of Jules Verne. The term really has to do with steam-powered machines , watch-gear driven mechanica, and early version of chemistry. When scientists like those portrayed in Frankenstein harnessed new technologies with the natural powers of the Earth in order to achieve wonderful scientific results. The supposed creators of such devices and machines educated and sophisticated gentleman, who while a bit mad perhaps, never forgot the necessity of beauty and art in their creations.
You might recognize the Temption CGK203 because I own one and reviewed it here. Check out the review for everything you wanted to know about this watch along with additional pictures. Part of me does want to purchase another one honestly. But considering I am trying to expand my collection rather than create too much redundancy, I will leave the opportunity open for you. Because the auction has an undisclosed reserve price, it is hard to say what it will go for. I'd say a reasonable price is about ,500.
In the left center of the dial is the seconds counter for the watch itself. It is tastefully done, as a thick little hand moves purposefully around the counter with indicators, but no number values. This gives it a clean look, and allows for great appreciation of the raised and polished indicators. In fact, all the indicators on the Diavolo are specially placed on the dial and not merely painted on. The indicators are angular (with the exception of the prominent "12" and "6" on the top and bottom), with a thin strip of luminant in the indicators for the watch itself. Other than providing a rich three-dimensional look, the raised indicators make the Diavolo easy to read despite the wealth of lines and contrasts on the face. One thing I would have liked to see is a continuation of the glossy look on the gunmetal gray areas of the dial. The lighter section of the dial is a cream color (other Diavolo models have different color schemes), but could have used a bit of texture in my opinion. Further, the color of date dial through the date window is the stock white, which is a bit lighter than the rest of the face. It isn't easy to notice, but I would have appreciate a custom colored date dial. Perhaps, this is asking for too much, as these dials are part of the movement kit, and great expense and effort would be required in changing the color, even a bit. Very minor issues easily overshadowed by the many benefits of the face and dial. Further, the face is covered by a flush sitting sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both the front and back of the crystal. The effect of this is obvious once you see the watch, as light casts no glare to be seen allowing for perfect visibility in any light.
I have never dived before in my life and until I layed eyes on the new Hydroscaph GMT Diver 1000m from Clerc, I never had a reason too. All of a sudden swimming with the sharks doesn't seem so scary anymore!
Instead of being clever in the title of this review, I wanted to make it clear how good this watch is considering the price. I have handled a good deal of watches, perhaps not as many as I would like, but enough to know that price does not always equal quality of construction. Meaning you can enjoy a superbly built watch at a very reasonable price. Sure a 0 watch is probably going to feel like it is shabbily put together compared to something in the several thousand dollar range, but once you go up from there, things can get a bit fuzzy. However, some watches seem to hit built quality that is out of their price league.
Schwarzenegger: No one said looking good would come cheap. Here the Schwarzenegger watch is the bargain of the two. The pictured rose gold Schwarzenegger watch retails for just over ,000. For that money, you could barely buy a Hummer H2, and not even close to Schwarzenegger's preferred vehicle, the Hummer H1.
The Orbita Privee RX, which I will refer to as the "RX" was originally designed to be sold with a Breguet logo, but the deal went sour with the Swatch Group. Having designed the winder, Orbita decided to market it directly to the consumer. Frankly, I think this is wise, I only wished the RX was a better winder. I cannot speak for any other Orbita winder, as I hear generally good things, but the RX is a sub-par watch winder in design and function. Frankly, my investigation of other Orbita watch winders yielded positive results for the most part, and this review strictly concerns this one model.
WINNER: It is probably no surprise that the Jules Audemars Clinton Foundation Equation of Time watch is the winner. With its superior price, complexity and namesake, it was just too much for the Audemars Piguet Arnold Schwarzenegger Royal Oak Offshore. Nevertheless, in other battles the Schwarzenegger watch would have won if the criteria had been more limited to strength and size. Good thing we value a well rounded leader. The Clinton watch remains the ultimate watch you want to own. You don't even get one for being elected President. Better start saving.
The Franck Muller Group -owned Backes and Strauss watch division has a mission that seems pretty simple. In my own words; make really nice, well designed watches, that are prohibitively expensive, with lots of diamonds. Despite this lofty ambition and young nature as a watch maker, they are succeeding. My favorite among their growing line, is the Men's Berkeley watch. And what a watch it is. The colors and materials differ, as well as the surface area covered in diamonds.
Written By: Tom Mulraney ablogtowatch.com, thewatchlounge.com